Sophia, The Other Gray Lady
Eurotrip, Part One: Bulgaria + Greece
Why Bulgaira? Because it's on the list, and it had the added benefit of being one of the cheapest roundtrip tickets into Eastern Europe from Boston. I’ve been tied up with work this year and I’m way off my usual travel pace, so this was also a way to rack up some miles and get in another country. For this trip I'm joined by Tara, and my friend of many years, Ronnie. We packed our bags and headed to Sophia for a quick multi-city tour of the country.
Initial impressions? Well, first of all, are you a fan of concrete blocks? Are you a fan of gray concrete blocks? Then my friend, you’re in for a treat, because I think the entire country is made of just that. It's also a bit dreary this time of year, which made things feel even more anodyne. Bulgaria in October isn’t exactly a tourist hotspot (one might even argue that it’s never a hotspot, regardless of the month). Not me, of course. I would never suggest such a thing. But during the trip planning though, Tara worked hard to maintain some excitement for the city, but Sophia doesn’t exactly call to you. Once you’re there, it certainly doesn’t dazzle the senses. Looking out of the plane window as you land treats you to the sight of Soviet era block housing stretching for miles in all directions. The city is gray, the airport gray, the sky and the clouds, you get the picture. Listen, I’m sure summer is gorgeous, maybe even spring, but October? No, not so much. Very few places are totally devoid of fun though, if you know where to look … and lower your standards as to what counts as fun. So after checking into our hotel (paid for with travels points, natch) we headed out into the rain and made the best of it.
Despite it’s dour color palate, the city center is nice enough. It has the usual shopping districts you would expect to find in a city this size, and it wasn’t lousy with shoddy tourist souvenirs and aggressive touts like a lot of European cities. Roman ruins pepper the city, the biggest of which -the Serdica Complex- were unearthed during the construction of the metro station that now sits over it. They won't knock your socks of, but they are interesting. There are a smattering of old churches, plenty of decent dining options, and a clean public transit line that makes getting to and form the city a breeze. On a friendliness level, it ranks between “eh, not bad”. Faint praise, I know, but I’ll take that over the aggressive, pushy-insanity of say, Beijing, any day. Heading out late that night for dinner had us making friend with a group of German tourists who were in town for a long weekend. Ever had rakia? It's a brandy made from fruit, usually grapes, and it tastes just like you imagine Eastern European liquor would: strong, but also spicy. It's a must while you're there. Also make sure you get the banitsa, a Bulgarian pastry staple found in every bakery and coffee shop. It's quite tasty.
Knowing Sophia wasn’t going to be the shiniest gem in the Bulgarian crown, we planned a few day trips out of the city. So after our wet, milquetoast day in the capital, we headed out via bus to Plovdiv. I think we all agreed: if you’re visiting one place in Bulgaria, this is the place to go. It’s mostly devoid of oppressive Soviet architecture, and has a fun, almost Bohemian feel. Great restaurants, more Roman ruins (with a really well-preserved amphitheater), and – at least when we were there – street festivals - make this town a real gem. Street art covers many of the buildings, reminding me a little of Reykjavik, and we spent some time watching a human foosball game that consumed an entire street. Plovdiv is only a few hours away via a comfortable bus ride, and well worth the time.
Our second outing was to Veliko Tarnovo, a charming city with cobblestone streets, and a scenic Old Town with lovely views of the Yantra River. It’s also home to the Tsarevets Fortress, the former citadel of the second Bulgarian empire. Wait! I know you started zoning out the second I said old fortress, but keep reading! The fortress is the main tourist draw, and while it’s nice to spend some time wandering around the restored castle grounds, the real attraction is the church at the top of the hill. I’ve seen a lot of churches, temples, wats, you name it (anyone who travels a decent amount will have) and generally, after seeing one, I’m like, “I get it”. Big church, built in the so-and-so age, caught fire or was bombed/knocked down by a mudslide/earthquake, then rebuilt in the 1800’s or the 1950s, or whatever. It supposedly has the bones or ghost or tooth or jar filled with the fart of some old saint, and blah blah blah I’m bored to tears just writing about it.
BUT!
This church is more of a … how would I describe it? The theme seems to be a sexy/BDSM interpretation of various bible scenes, with a healthy dose of not-exactly benign looking “mentorship” between the priests and their young male apprentices. It’s fascinating, unsettling, and totally worth the price of admission (which is cheap anyways, by western standards). If you see the inside of one church in the country, make it this one.
Our time in Bulgaria wrapped up pretty quickly, and we are on the way to Athens for a few days of fun in the sun. Bulgaria does have its charms, you may just have to dig a little deeper here to find them than you would some other places.
Tips!
Don't come in October
Always say yes to Rakia
Skip a rental car. Buses are cheap and plentiful.
Spend most of you time outside of Sophia unless you really like gray.
How we go there: Flight from Boston to Sophia on Lufthansa. Round trip about $700 USD.
Where we stayed: Hotel Central Used leftover points to book this hotel. Good location, decent rooms, no complaints.
What we did: Ate, drank, bought shirts with Putin's picture on it, found out you can get pickle-back shots in Sophia. Oh! Make sure you try Boza, a millet based breakfast drink that smells like a ferret and tastes like the word musky, made into a beverage. It's reputed to make your breasts larger, so ... there's that. Also, make sure to grab a gourmet grilled cheese burger (and a pickle back shot) at MEAT, a great local restaurant, and a coffee and pastry at The Rainbow Factory (thanks Trek for Two!).
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